Nerd Knowledge: The science of fabric softeners

The first fabric softeners were created by the textile industry during the early twentieth century. The process was used to dye cotton fibers left them feeling harsh. In the early 1900s, compounds known as cotton softeners were developed to improve the feel of these fibers after dyeing. A cotton softener usually consisted of seven parts water, three parts soap, and one part olive, corn, or tallow oil. With new discoveries in organic chemistry, new compounds were created that could more effectively soften the fabric, such as quats, particularly dihydrogenated tallow alkyl dimethyl ammonium chloride (DHTDMAC), and more recently, esterquats and polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS). These improved products soon made their way into the commercial market.

Quaternary ammonium cations, commonly called quats, are basically ammonium salts with a positively charged nitrogen atom, bonded to 4 different organic compounds. They can be divided into two halves, one that is a water-insoluble (hydrophobic & fatty ) hydrocarbon tail, and the other a water-soluble positively charged head. Since most of a quat molecule is hydrophobic, emulsifiers are added to improve penetration of the wet fabric, and for stabilization purposes.

At the present time, there are three types of emulsifiers used in fabric softeners, micro-emulsions, macro-emulsions, and emulsion polymers. Each of these emulsifiers is added based on the level of fabric penetration/deposition to be achieved. Micro-emulsions allow deep penetration into the fibers, while macro-emulsions and emulsion polymers only coat the outer surface.

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The positively charged nucleus of a quat, when it is inside the fabric, neutralizes static cling by bonding with the negatively charged fibers. During this process, the threads stand up and a molecule-thick coating of quats is deposited over the external fibers. This coating acts as a lubricating layer, due to the fatty ends of the hydrocarbon chain in quats. Therefore, this layer contributes to a fluffier and softer feeling material, along with making ironing significantly easier.

In addition to quats and emulsifiers, other chemical ingredients are added to boost the color and leave the clothes smelling “fresh and fragrant.”

Since most fabric softeners contain cationic compounds (compounds with positively charged ions) and laundry detergents are anionic (compounds with negatively charged ions), when combined the two can react to form an unwanted precipitate. Therefore, most fabric softeners must be placed in the rinse cycle. Anionic fabric softeners can be added to the detergent itself.

Initially, this restriction required the consumer to make an extra trip to the washing machine if they wanted to soften their clothes. However, In the late 1970s manufacturers developed fabric softener sheets that are used in the dryer. These sheets provide some of the benefits of fabric softeners but with the added convenience of being able to be added in the dryer instead of the washer rinse cycle. However, while dryer sheets are very popular today, liquid softeners are still widely used because they are more effective.

There are some health and environmental concerns with fabric softeners. People with sensitive skin are prone to dermatitis (skin inflammation) when wearing clothes that have been treated with fabric softeners. Also, the ingredients in fabric softeners are also known to cause headaches and lightheadedness, and purportedly serious medical conditions such as asthma and cancer.

Furthermore, studies have shown that clothes, after being treated with fabric softeners, are also more susceptible to catching fire. A fabric softener should not be used on towels and washcloths as it will reduce absorbency. Environmentally speaking, many of the chemicals used in softening conditioners are toxic and detrimental to marine life.

Three are DIY alternatives to traditional fabric softeners: wool or aluminum foil dryer balls can eliminate static cling as well as adding half a cup of vinegar to the final rinse cycle.

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